The Indian Visa Process: Then and Now

Summary: A more organized, outsourced visa process may reflect changes in India. The differences noted, however, may be little more than a façade, and India’s infamous bureaucracy may still be just underneath the surface.

Having experienced the visa process in 2007 and again in 2009, I've noticed some stark differences that makes me speculate how India has changed. First of all, the entire process has ironically been outsourced to a third-party vendor. The paperwork is standardized and the process accelerated through an online application, and the wait time is significantly diminished through use of a reservation.

Two years ago, my fellow Dosti volunteers and I arrived at the Indian consulate in SF to be greeted by what seemed to be a chaotic crowd. The small space was packed, and order didn't seem to be particularly enforced. This year, the visa office was large and spatious, and I walked in greeted by order and a clear line (and process) - sign in, pay, submit paperwork. Perhaps this implies a more efficient and less bureaucratic India? (The major downfall of this outsourcing business is that it appears the SF office serves all of CA and other parts of the West coast, making it significantly less convenient for most folks. Perhaps this is the price to pay for increased efficiency for some?)

Returning to pick up the visa, however, showed that the cleaner and more efficient user interface may simply be a facade, and that the real India may be lurking just underneath the surface. A pickup process stated to run from 5:30-6 pm didn't start until 5:50 pm, and there were no instructions given as to how pickup would run (e.g., wait in line vs. called by name). As a result, folks stood around not bothering to get in line until a maverick took the initiative; only then did the rest of the crowd race into formation. Perhaps this is how India works - there are rules, but often creating your own is more effective as few will bother telling you how things run. [As an update, I did experience this in Delhi as I was trying to transfer to the domestic terminal.]

As a fun sidenote, I applied for the 5-year visa (only special people can get the 10-year). Upon pickup, I noticed that my visa was slated to expire in 2019 and asked the folks at the counter if this would pose a problem when I enter. The response? "You're lucky! Consider it you just got 5 years free!"

Perhaps I am returning to a new and different India. Or perhaps the noted differences will only be superficial, and India actually remains unchanged.